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Its at-times painful history was often associated with severe violence and insecurity related to drug cartels. Now, in 2024, it is a vibrant hub of culture and commerce, set in a dramatic valley in the Andes.
A fun, immersive, and reasonably safe introduction to the country, it ticks all the essential boxes for a memorable stay. Be intentional about the time of year you plan to visit to make the most of your experience.
After a month in the underwhelming weather of Bogotá, I was eager to indulge in some more traditionally South American temperatures, taking the 45-minute flight north to Medellín, the capital of the Antioquia region and a renowned international tourist hub.
Prices felt marginally higher than in Bogotá for a comparable property but still offered excellent value by global standards. For around £1,000 per month, you should be able to secure a high-quality apartment in whichever neighbourhood you choose. During the high season, expect prices to rise and availability to decrease accordingly, so booking well in advance is advisable if planning a trip in those periods.
Each main area offers a markedly different experience of the city, so it’s worth considering carefully where to base yourself before booking.
Residential air conditioning is uncommon, and with daytime temperatures reaching up to 28°C on clear days, working from home may feel borderline uncomfortable.
Most of the city’s coworking options are located in the El Poblado area, where WeWork has three high-quality sites, all featuring expansive outdoor areas. Compared to their offices in Bogotá, I found these to be significantly more professional and tailored for working individuals, with dedicated seating areas and much-needed air conditioning.
A few independent options can be found in Laureles, while the downtown area offers little of note. You’ll likely see people working in the numerous coffee shops throughout the city, which generally provide calm and relaxed environments, often staying open until around 20:00 on weekdays.
Prices for everyday purchases felt generally similar to those in Bogotá, with a slight premium likely in neighbourhoods like El Poblado and Laureles, where high-end restaurants catering to tourists are more common than local eateries.
Upmarket malls in the hills, such as Amsterdam Plaza, serve as hubs for both shopping and dining, offering international options at prices reasonable by global standards. The concentration of tourism is significant enough that any price difference fades quickly outside these core areas.
Medellín has a lively and energetic feel, particularly in the touristic neighbourhoods of El Poblado, which offer a more concentrated nightlife atmosphere compared to anything I found in Bogotá. Similar to the capital, the actual downtown area provides little of value, with the more modern neighbourhoods feeling more like distinct towns than traditional cities in a European sense.
While El Poblado is predominantly known as an entertainment hub, the area from Parque El Poblado to Santafé Mall is home to numerous businesses, with offices on either side of Avenida El Poblado, giving it a working feel during the week. The city is home to early risers, with the streets busy with commuters by 06:30.
Colombia Time (COT) is year-round GMT-5, placing it right on the edge of where you can comfortably work to maintain some overlap with European colleagues. I would generally start each day at 06:30 local time, finishing a couple of hours earlier than normal. For anyone maintaining North American hours, Colombia's position is ideal, aligning perfectly with Eastern Time during US Standard Time, and with Central Time during US Daylight Saving Time.
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El Poblado has, in recent years, become the primary hub for expats and tourists in the city, gaining a reputation for being lively, safe, and internationally oriented.
If it’s your first visit, staying within a 10-minute drive of its centre is a reliable choice, though certainly not the only one.
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Just a two-minute walk from Parque de El Poblado, WeWork occupies this modern nine-storey commercial building, with the scenic backdrop of El Tesoro appearing in the background.
There is a large, air-conditioned All Access Space on the 8th floor, with a balcony wrapping around its perimeter and plenty of sofas and phone booths for moments away from your desk. There is a Juan Valdez café also on this floor and a range of quality options for coffee and lunch within a five-minute walk. Some standout espressos were from Campesino Café, Cafés de Origen Sede Antejardín and Urbania Café.
Whilst the vast majority of people there are Colombians, on each of my visits there was a number of North Americans and a distinctly more international feel than any of the sites I visited in Bogotá.
The entire 9th floor is dedicated to a roof terrace with sun loungers, sofas, beer taps and even what looked like a court for padel or football, with amazing views of the entire area. If I were to return to Medellín, I'd ensure I was within close walking distance of here.
WeWork Las Palmas - Set in the hills around a ten-minute drive from El Poblado (without traffic), Las Palmas has amazing views of the valley beneath with plentiful seating. Whilst the location does provide great views, it is in a secluded location so you can't nip out for coffee or lunch.
WeWork Carrera 42 - A ten-minute walk further down Avenida El Poblado, this still felt a good option but with fewer seating options. Within convenient distance of the large malls of Oviedo and Santafé.
The Colombia digital nomad visa offers an affordable route for remote workers seeking to live and work in Colombia. At $177, it's significantly cheaper than many similar visas, and applicants only need to prove a monthly income of at least $684.
The application process is straightforward: you'll need a valid passport, health insurance, an employment verification letter, and bank statements showing your income. Successful applicants are granted a two-year stay in Colombia and receive a foreign ID card, the Cedula de Extranjeria.
This ID allows holders to rent properties and set up mobile phone contracts, adding further convenience for longer-term stays.
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Comuna 13 has a troubled past and was once among the city’s most dangerous areas due to gang violence, drug trafficking, and clashes between paramilitary groups. Over the past 15 years, it has transformed into a hub of street art, music, and community-led initiatives. Escalators have been installed alongside colourfully painted staircases, connecting residents to steep neighbourhoods.
Numerous tours focus on either the graffiti or historic elements of the neighbourhood, though these are not necessary, as you can walk around safely on your own. I visited in the early morning, which felt like the best time to avoid the inevitable crowds later in the day, but a later visit in the afternoon might be ideal to enjoy the many appealing cocktail and michelada spots. Easily reachable from El Poblado via public transport or Uber, Comuna 13 is definitely worth a morning or afternoon of your time while in the city.
Visiting in October felt like you were constantly rolling the dice with the weather. Of the seven days I was there, three had periods of sustained rain, three were cloudy and one offered blissful clear skies. When it does rain, the city can grind to a standstill under its intensity, with temporary rivers flowing down from the steep valleys enclosing the centre.
December to March is supposedly the best period of the year to reduce the likelihood of rain, but its presence can never be fully ruled out.
There's more than enough to occupy a month's stay, but I'd personally base myself a little away from the immediate tourist centres for anything longer than a week.
There was a noticeable increase in the number of both remote workers in the WeWork offices I visited and tourists passing through compared to Bogotá, but still fewer than I anticipated given the city's reputation as a remote work hub. This might be partly due to visiting outside of peak season.
If you're looking to meet others, there are numerous WhatsApp and Facebook groups with a number of specific interest groups for accommodation and hiking.
Walking around El Poblado, you're likely to encounter a healthy representation of North Americans, as well as a noticeable presence of Europeans. In Manila, it felt as though you're most likely to be surrounding yourself with tourists due to the volume of hotels and hostels in the area.
The presence of foreign influence soon disperses, however, and if you head down to Envigado, only a few stops from El Poblado, you'd struggle to find any evidence of expatriate presence
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