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Some of these trips are now more than 3 years old. If you notice any inaccuracies, or a coffee shop has sadly closed down, please get in touch.
Intro
Should you go?
Summary
Where to stay
Where to work
Remote work visa
Safety
Off work
Duration & season
Food & drink
People
Exercise
Verdict

Istanbul

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A standout city for work, holiday or any other imaginable reason.

Divided by the Bosphorus Strait, Istanbul stands at the crossroads of Europe and Asia.

This unique location has fostered a vibrant cultural hub, attracting visitors from across the globe who are captivated by its rich and impressive history.

Turkey
Dec 2022
Turkish Lira (TRY)
1 month

IST & SAW

15.4 Million

Should you go?

Highly recommended.

Highly recommended.

Highly recommended.

Highly recommended.

One of the few places that I think everyone should visit once in their lifetime and a particularly effective base for a remote work destination. Whether for work or pleasure, just book a ticket. Nothing more needs to be said.

💰 Great value
🏝️ Great for a holiday
💻 Remote work hub
🥇 Top rated
🧳 Would like to return

Summary

Istanbul is a city I've frequently returned to over the past few years. As a prefix to the rest of the article, I will tell you immediately that it's somewhere I love working from.

The chaos, the food, the weather and the people all combine in an undeniably distinctive destination. After four months in the rather sedate cities of Central Asia, I was craving a return to the chaos of a proper urban metropolis, and a late-summer month in Istanbul fit the bill perfectly.

This original article was written in 2023, but I've updated it with details from this most recent trip.

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Accommodation
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
52
%
info
New legislation
Recent changes introduced by the Turkish government has made short-term rentals for under 100 days more restricted. Keep an eye on Reddit threads for up-to-date assessments of how the new legislation is impacting short-term rentals in practice.

The quality and service associated with Airbnbs tend to be hit and miss throughout Turkey, and Istanbul is no exception. Given the scale of the city, general availability is sub-par, compounded by the insatiable appetite for accommodation from both year-round tourists and the 15 million people who call it home.

Supply comes nowhere near meeting the high demand in the city, so finding a good deal, especially during peak seasons, requires some degree of intentionality.

A core contributing issue is the somewhat ageing building stock in many of the popular areas around Beyoğlu. More modern commercial units are likely to be found outside of the immediate tourist areas, in the more residential areas near Osmanbey, Beşiktaş and Şişli.

Due to this incredibly high demand, the chances of you finding an outstanding deal are minimal. If booking via Airbnb, expect to pay around £1,200 per calendar month for a reasonable quality, renovated one-bedroom apartment in a central location.

Occasionally you may see some cheaper deals on Airbnb and especially in hotels in areas like Fatih, but if it's your first time visiting the city, I'd avoid any temptations to book in those areas to get the most out of it.

If you are sensitive to noise, pay close attention to reviews on Airbnb regarding this, especially if staying close to Taksim. I stayed on Süslü Saksı Street on one trip and whilst it was incredibly convenient to get around the city, being routinely woken up at 3AM Thursday through Monday by a techno party in the middle of December somewhat hindered the experience.

Due to all the above, book well in advance and pay close attention to where you plan to work from. Whilst public transport is generally efficient within the city, some journeys can take far longer than you may envisage, so plan ahead if you intend to commute across the city to a co-working space.

Places to work
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
70
%

When looking at the immense mass of the metropolitan area of Istanbul, there's a reasonable selection of sites spread across both the European and Asian sides of the city.

Yet in the areas which attract the most attention from tourists, around İstiklal/Galata and Kadıköy, there's a threadbare selection of truly quality options to choose from. Most of the building stock around the area is generally ageing and while that lends to the historic charm, it hasn't created a tonne of surplus office space for operators to move into.

Luckily, I am a huge admirer of the COBAC coworking space which I've written about in further detail below and I would strongly recommend at the very least checking it out for a day if looking for a base.

WeWork doesn't operate within Turkey but both the Workinton and Workhaus chains have numerous sites dotted around some of the key transport hubs. I spent a month several years ago at the Workinton site in Nişantaşı which was a solid, if unremarkable, base.

Cafes are generally open later into the evening than you would expect in Western Europe, but I didn't encounter any I would consider seriously working out of.

Given how big the city is, it's worth planning your accommodation intentionally around where you choose to work from. If it's your first time, I'd prioritise being within a simple commuting journey, before trying to assess anything more exotic from the myriad of options.

Value
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
80
%

Whether or not you find Istanbul good or bad value in 2025 will largely hinge on your personal tastes. Importantly, it's worth noting that for Turks earning locally in lira, there is only one answer. The lira is low, inflation remains high and local purchasing power is weak.

I've read plenty on prices skyrocketing over the last couple of years across Turkey, but Istanbul seems to have avoided the worst of the excesses, with the beach-side resorts on the coastline more susceptible to eye-watering inflation. Prices are higher than they were in 2023, but for most of my day-to-day expenses, not in a significant manner.

If you are bringing external currency, in many ways it remains excellent value and not too different from several years ago. A rapidly served, tasty meal consisting of a meat and vegetable dish, rice and a side can still be had for under £5 in one of the city's many casual lokanta. A freshly grilled kebab, bulgur, salad and bread can be found for a similar price. A 50cl domestic beer in a bar in a popular area around Taksim or Kadıköy can be found for around £3.50. Public transport of any form is uniformly cheap, around 50p a journey, and local produce from markets is less than what you would expect in Western Europe.

Should your tastes become more refined however, costs can spiral. Speciality coffee and cakes from coffee shops are similar to what you may expect in a city like London. International cuisines in more refined restaurants can begin to exceed what you may expect. Cocktails and imported beers in high-end areas like Nişantaşı can begin to exceed what you may expect in higher-end European cities.

If you are happy to eat locally, and curtail evening extravagances, then you'll likely find your monthly expenses lower than what you may be used to.

info
The yen is currently at a 34-year low
While this is undoubtedly a negative for the Japanese, it makes for an exceptionally good time to visit Japan from abroad. Although this trend is unlikely to reverse significantly in the short term, it's still worth checking before visiting.
Read more
Excitement
Bad
Ok
Good
Great
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%

A strong contender for the title of Europe’s most exciting city, Istanbul offers something unique in each of its diverse areas. Its vast expanse ensures that even after a month, there’s still more to discover. Having visited the city on four different occasions, there’s always somewhere new to explore on each return.

Working hours

Turkey adheres to GMT+2 in summer, reverting to GMT+3 in winter due to the absence of daylight saving time practices.

🇪🇺 Consider working European hours from Asia?
I've written a guide on how to structure your day to get the most out of the time difference.
Read article
Do you need to speak Spanish?
Without doubt, being able to speak Spanish with a degree of fluency is a huge asset when visiting South America. I had always put off visiting the continent due to my Spanish skills not extending beyond requesting a "cerveza grande".

But even with my incredibly primitive linguistic capabilities, it was not in any way to the detriment of the trip. English is spoken sparsely, but armed with a few phrases, some polite enthusiasm and a translator, it shouldn't deter you from visiting.
Do you need to speak Portugese?
After spending 10 weeks speaking (limited) Spanish across the rest of the continent, I struggled arriving in Brazil.

While I was far from conversational in Spanish, I quickly realised when I stepped out of the airport my vocabulary didn't extend a single word beyond 'Obrigado!'.
‍
In general, English is generally spoken incredibly sparsely. The most flowing interaction I had ended up being with an Uber driver where we periodically shouted out the names of Brazilian footballers playing in the English Premier League.

You can scrape by for a couple of weeks, but if you're planning on staying longer, I'd 100% recommend learning some basics to get the most out of the experience.
National flags are ubiquitous during any stay within the country, but never more so than during a public holiday. Victory Day in particular, falling at the end of August, will see the streets particularly awash with draped red flags adorning the city's buildings.
National flags are ubiquitous during any stay within the country, but never more so than during a public holiday. Victory Day in particular, falling at the end of August, will see the streets particularly awash with draped red flags adorning the city's buildings.
On match days of Fenerbahçe, the Yoğurtçu Parkı outside the stadium turns into a hectic array of yellow and blue shirts, smoke grenades and passionate chanting. If you are a football fan, head down with a bottle of Efes and soak up the atmosphere. If not, you may want to give it a wide berth.
On match days of Fenerbahçe, the Yoğurtçu Parkı outside the stadium turns into a hectic array of yellow and blue shirts, smoke grenades and passionate chanting. If you are a football fan, head down with a bottle of Efes and soak up the atmosphere. If not, you may want to give it a wide berth.
Ferry boats form an important part of the city's transport infrastructure, especially when attempting to cross from the European side to Kadıköy. Alongside well-equipped cafés serving tea and fresh juices, you'll likely find buskers contesting with the ship's engine noises in a battle for your eardrums.
Ferry boats form an important part of the city's transport infrastructure, especially when attempting to cross from the European side to Kadıköy. Alongside well-equipped cafés serving tea and fresh juices, you'll likely find buskers contesting with the ship's engine noises in a battle for your eardrums.
If you are looking to escape the mayhem often felt within the central districts of the city, you don’t have to wander too far along any of the arterial waterways to find a moment of serenity. If you are staying on the European side, it’s well worth a sunset walk up to the residential areas like Bebek.
If you are looking to escape the mayhem often felt within the central districts of the city, you don’t have to wander too far along any of the arterial waterways to find a moment of serenity. If you are staying on the European side, it’s well worth a sunset walk up to the residential areas like Bebek.
🔎
November 2024 Fact Check
Given the instability in Argentina over the past few years, I found that most advice on key topics, even if written within the last 12 months, bordered on being dangerously outdated.

I have attempted to summarise some of the most misleading points I encountered.
"Nowhere accepts card"
Incorrect
Card availability is now excellent across the city. Even if you are purchasing a single empanada, bananas from a greengrocer, or buying cans of beer off a man in the street before a football match. Some businesses may offer a 10% discount if you use cash, or charge a small surcharge for card payments.
"It's difficult to get a SUBE card"
Incorrect
This was true in recent years, as there had been a shortage of the cards across the city due to a lack of the plastics needed to create the card. I had no problems going to the nearest off-licence and getting a card on my first attempt. It's worth asking your Airbnb host who may have a spare.
"Buenos Aires is cheap"
Incorrect
The biggest misconception that may still linger, even if you are reading articles from 2023. If planning on eating out heavily, then expect European prices or even higher on more imported day-to-day goods. Eating out aside, day-to-day expenses are still good value by global measures.
"Bring dollars with you"
Partially true
This advice would continue to make sense for Americans who already have dollars, but I wouldn't recommend making an effort to purchase with the intent of exchanging them on the ground. Collecting money via Western Union was convenient and good value, which I would recommend to anyone visiting from outside the US.
"Make sure you get the blue-dollar rate"
Partially true
The dramatic stabilisation of the peso by late 2024 means that this difference is nowhere near as significant as it was 12 months ago. At the time of writing, there was only a 10% difference between the official and blue rate. If you are only in the city for a short period you may not even have to grapple with this.
"Restaurant service is poor"
Partially true
I did see some evidence of this, especially in cheaper,  traditional restaurants. In comical fashion, drinks would not appear or the bill would never materialise. In more contemporary outlets, it was never a problem.
"It is a football mad city"
True
There is absolutely no doubt that this is as true as ever in 2024.

Where to stay

More so than most other cities, due to its sheer size, the location you choose to stay in will heavily dictate the nature of your visit.

The city is well connected through a combination of the metro, Marmaray and ferry boats, but it's worth being particularly intentional with where you plan to live and work.

Having stayed on both the European and Asian sides numerous times, I don't think there's a concrete answer on which is better. Both are great. Try and find the best Airbnb your budget can stretch to and explore the others at the weekend.

Cihangir
Recommended
Would avoid
A particularly difficult pronunciation, roughly equating to 'chee-han-GEAR', the area is set a short walk from the madness of İstiklal and provides one of the most liberal, bohemian settings across the city. Expect to find lots of small independent shops and boutiques, and it's surprisingly peaceful considering its proximity to one of Beyoğlu's main arterial walkways.
CoBAC WorkSpace
Kadıköy
Recommended
Would avoid
If you are visiting during the summer months, this would be my number one pick. Kadıköy is the main hub on the Asian side of the city, equally, if not more vibrant and hectic in its narrow streets, but markedly less touristy than the main draws in Beyoğlu. A lifetime's worth of local restaurants, coffee shops and bars, it also features Moda Park, which runs along the coastline and is the perfect place to unwind in the evenings, with no real direct equivalent in terms of convenience on the European side. Airbnb stock is particularly low and expensive in the area, so book as far in advance as possible if looking for a prolonged stay.
Archerson Kadıköy
Bomonti
Recommended
Would avoid
Around a 30-minute walk further north from the madness of Taksim, Bomonti has a dramatically more local and residential feel, yet still within close reach of everything, with the M2 metro line conveniently taking you further north or south across the city. Perhaps not the most immersive option if it's your first visit to the city, but if you are looking for more of a realistic longer-term base in Beyoğlu, this could be a good fit. I worked from the Workinton branch there on one previous visit, which is a fine, if unremarkable, base if in the area.
Workinton Lotus Nişantaşı
Galata
Recommended
Would avoid
A perfect destination for a first-time visit if you want a quintessential experience of the city and to be within walking distance of a glut of main attractions. The sheer volume of daily tourists around the tower and a surprisingly poor choice of supermarkets makes it something of a less appealing destination for a longer-term stay. But if you don't mind featuring in several wedding photography shoots, it's an incredibly convenient place to call home. One of the best features is the beautiful daily commute to the COBAC co-working space, around a 20-minute walk crossing over the Haliç bridge and Golden Horn. At the bottom of the hill, neighbouring Karaköy is also worth equal consideration.
COBAC Workspace
Beşiktaş
Recommended
Would avoid
One of the liveliest areas of the city, full of bars, restaurants and the football team of the same name. No metro station but well connected by the ferry boats and a relatively short walk up the hill to Taksim Square and Nişantaşı. A slightly more local feel than if staying closer to the areas around İstiklal and Galata, less inundated with tourists, but equally as electric.
Workinton Maçka Nişantaşı
Fatih
Recommended
Would avoid
Only a 15-minute walk from Galata, but generally regarded as one of the more conservative areas of the city, you're unlikely to want to spend too much time in this district, where you're much more likely to find a mosque than a bar. Particularly busy around Eminönü port, with attractions like the Mısır Çarşısı and Topkapi Palace bringing in huge crowds year-round. Sort of place you're likely to walk around once or twice on your first visit with little need to make a return journey. While it's the closest district to the COBAC coworking space, the convenience doesn't make it somewhere worth staying.
CoBAC WorkSpace

Where to work

CoBAC WorkSpace
Top choice
☕️ Good Coffee
📍 Top location
🥗 On site cafe
🧍Community focused
⭐️ Quality fit out
🌳 Outdoor Space

A strong contender for my favourite place to work from. Ever. I've returned to this office each time I've been in Istanbul, and each time it's retained the same charm that impressed me so much initially.

If you're planning on working from Istanbul, I'd strongly suggest making this your first port of call, and it's worth planning your accommodation to be somewhere within an easy commute.

So why all the big praise? The office is split over four floors, with an abundance of natural light in every area. The fit-out has a modern aesthetic that you might associate with something similar to WeWork, but with more personality.

The main communal co-working spaces are on the third and fourth floors, alongside private offices, with particularly comfortable sofas and soft furnishings dotted around for taking calls.

There's light background music audible throughout all areas of the building, but not at levels that feel intrusive like in a WeWork. It rarely feels anywhere near full capacity. You can arrive at any time of day without being concerned about squeezing in.

The rooftop provides panoramic views over the Golden Horn, with a café serving tasty, fresh meals and coffee all day at very competitive prices. Expect Turkish staples like menemen, simit and mantı, alongside international options. The kitchen staff, baristas and office personnel are all friendly and welcoming—a refreshing departure from the transient nature of passing through a WeWork. Free filter coffee and Turkish tea are available on tap from 8am until late.

Even though I'd strongly recommend not staying in the local area (you're more likely to find a mosque than a flat white in Fatih), Haliç metro and a ferry terminal are within a five-minute walk, making it easily reachable across the city.

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Get one month free on a 12-month commitment
Flexible access to shared workspace in hundreds of locations globally. Explore hundreds of global locations, whether you need office space in New York or a meeting room in London.
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Remote work visa

Remote work visa coming soon
A dedicated remote work visa is available for {$$$}.
This country is actively working on a visa support for remote workers.
There is currently no remote work visa available for this country.

Turkey has launched a digital nomad visa programme for remote workers. If you're between 21 and 55 and hold citizenship from one of 36 countries across Europe and North America (including the US), you're eligible to apply.

The visa allows you to live and work remotely in Turkey for a set period, with benefits including affordable living costs, healthcare access, and the opportunity to experience Turkey's culture and scenery.

The requirements are standard for these types of visas. You'll need a valid passport with at least six months remaining, health insurance, proof of income, and documentation showing you're employed or self-employed.

The application process is handled online through Turkey's official platform. Once they've reviewed your documents and approved your application, you'll receive a Digital Nomad Identification Certificate. Take that certificate along with your supporting documents to a Turkish visa centre or consulate to complete the process.

Turkey is positioning itself to attract the growing digital nomad market. For remote workers considering their next base, Turkey offers lower living costs compared to most Western European destinations.

Visa length
Visa cost
Earning requirements
Learn more open_in_new
To the best of my knowledge this information was correct as of Jan 2025. If you notice something has changed drop me a message and I'll update it! Citizen Remote is a great source of up to date knowledge for everything to do with remote work visas.

Safety

  • Considering its size, Istanbul is a very safe city by global standards.The streets are generally busy throughout all hours of the day, especially around the nighttime venues around Taksim and Kadıköy. There's generally a visible but not overbearing police presence at checkpoints around these areas. I've never seen anything troubling on any trip to the city that would cause concern, and it doesn't appear to suffer from the recent rise in issues like organized phone thefts that have become prominent in cities such as London. Political protests are a common occurrence in the city, so you may want to consider giving them a wide berth to avoid getting swept up in trouble.
  • From my experiences in Istanbul, it's rare that you would get overcharged as a tourist.However, it's much more common that you inadvertently go somewhere which has excessively high prices for no seeming reason. A good example may be a meal from a lokanta along Istiklal Street, which can almost double in price depending on location. If you walk an extra 200 meters down an alley, a meal of the exact same quality can be found for 50% of the cost.
  • Watch out for one common scam.One you can become easily attuned to is where a seemingly careless shoe shiner drops his brush on the floor behind you. Playing on your goodwill in returning it to him, he will seek to then clean your shoes for an excessively high fee with some force. If you're walking around Galata or Istiklal and you hear a brush dropping on the floor, gracefully ignore it and go about your daily business.

Off work

Take a day trip to Büyükada

The largest of the 'Princes Islands' situated just off the coast of the Asian side of the city, this archipelago is easily reached from boat from the main land. Grab an early ferry to beat the crowds and venture out of the town centre to enjoy a moment of rare serenity.

Learn more open_in_new
Watch the sunset at Moda Park

The whole area from Çocuk Parkı to Kadıköy Moda Sahil Parkı is blessed with incredible sunset views and 100% worth an evening drinking a cold Efes on the rocks. Moda İskelesi has a small library/coworking space to enjoy views of the water from.

Eat at a Meyhane

These style of restaurants can be found all across Turkey and you should definitely dedicate an evening to one. Numerous meze plates are served alongside plentiful Rakı, creating a unique piece of Turkish culture. There are countless in Istanbul, Asmalı Cavit, not far from Galata is worth a visit.

Take a Bosphorus tour

The best way to the city is to take one of the many boat tours that leave from the ferry piers near near Beşiktaş or Fatih. There's plenty to be seen on the journey up to Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge and plenty of tea to be drank during the journey.

Visit the Grand Bazaar

The sort of place you are likely to go once and never return, it's well worth visiting this enormous indoor market where conceivably anything under the sun can be purchased. Would recommend visiting earlier in the day to beat the inevitable crowds.

Take a tour at Topkapi Palace

The former royal residence and administrative centre of the Ottoman Empire for over four centuries. A sprawling complex showcasing distinctive architecture and an array of chambers that previously hosted the sultans.

Duration & season

To see Istanbul at its best, you need to be there during the summer months. Whilst it's got enough draws to be attractive 12 months of the year, the summer is a dramatically better experience.

From experience, the winter and spring weather in Istanbul can be surprisingly grim. During a December visit in 2022, it felt as if the sun did not rise for 10 days, with more sustained wetter and windier conditions than I could recall from any point during my endurance of British winters.

If visiting in the peak of summer, you'll definitely benefit from an apartment with strong air conditioning both in the common areas and bedrooms, which you should explicitly check for, especially if it's an older building.

Midsummer temperatures are hot but never at a level I've found uncomfortable, with at least a gentle breeze to be found sweeping inland off the water. By mid-September, there's a noticeable shift away from the uniform blue sky days as autumn makes its presence felt.

If you like the buzz of big cities, then there is more than enough for a couple of months' stay. You could even split the stay in two to experience different parts of the city's diverse landscape.

Food & drink

Dürümzade
Beyoğlu
Frequented once by Antony Bourdain, Durums (kebabs wraps) are offered here with the Lavash bread being a particular highlight.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Kamarad Coffee Roastery
Kadıköy
Coffee freshly roasted on site, moments away from the heart of Kadıköy. Stlight;y erratic opening hours but well worth an espresso.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
James Joyce Irish Pub
Beyoğlu
Shows all major sporting events and Premier League football throughout the weekend with an international crowd and roof terrace.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Craft Beer Lab
Beşiktaş
If you've exhausted your appetite for Efes or Tuborg, this bar in the heart of Beşiktaş has a great range of beers and a large outdoor area.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Kadı Lokantası
Kadıköy
Any of these Lokantası restaurants with lots of prepared food in the window are a great way to sample lots of local foods. The Bulgur & Abugerine dishes are usually safe bets.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Montag Coffee Roasters
Kadıköy
Chain with outlets across the city. This particular one in Kadıköy is a great place to watch the world go by,
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Parsa Coffee Roasters
Karaköy
Great freshly roasted coffee to enjoy in or take home.
Top choice
Laptop friendly
Exercise
Hacıosman to Beşiktaş
·
Run
One of my favourite runs that you'll find in any of the cities listed on Holdall. Take the M2 line up to Hacıosman around 90 minutes before sunset and follow the coastal path back down towards wherever your legs can take you. Passing through quaint, picturesque towns like Bebek, you'll pass numerous fishermen trying their luck as well as families enjoying a picnic alongside the water.
Golden Horn
·
Run
If you're working from COBAC and fancy a run after work, there's a great path which runs along the Golden Horn, following the recently completed tram line through various parks. The tram runs every five minutes, so whenever you've had enough you can hop on and take the journey back to the station immediately by Haliç station.
Pendik to Kadıköy
·
Walk
If you want to stretch your legs, there's a well-landscaped path which takes you along the southern coastline of the Asian side, around 17 miles from Pendik to the ferry port at Kadıköy. If you don't fancy so many steps, the Marmaray overground train service makes numerous stops, with Maltepe being more of a palatable distance and starting point. It's worth cutting in at Bostancı to head along the main road.
İBB Maçka Democracy Park
·
Run
If you are staying in Beyoğlu, this hilly green park is one of your best places to opt for a morning run away from the manic streets of Taksim. The undulating landscape makes it particularly difficult to pick up any real pace, but if you enjoy some steep climbs and stairs, you are in for a treat.
Kadiköy Loop
·
Run
Reason enough to stay in the area - a perfect morning route around the edge of Moda Park and back into the heart of Kadıköy. Gets progressively busier as the day goes on, so best to aim for earlier in the day rather than dodging cans and bottles of Tuborg in the later evening, although the sunset is spectacular.

People

Istanbul is well deserving of any clichéd attributions of being 'a melting pot'. Walk down İstiklal Street and you'll encounter accents from people across every inch of the world. Wealthy Arabs indulging in some retail therapy, enthusiastic Spanish-speaking backpackers, Ukrainians and Russians who have relocated since 2022, vocal swathes of North American tourists hovering around historic sites, and groups of African migrants working out of the electrical shops south of Galata Tower.

Throughout my visits across the country, I've always found the Turkish people to be particularly welcoming and hospitable, and Istanbul is no exception. There's a certain degree of genuine warmth and friendliness you feel on repeat visits to bars and restaurants, which feels like it extends past the vendor's no doubt commercial joy of seeing an Englishman consume his 20th portion of tavuk şiş throughout the month.

Even with its sheer size, I've found there to be a surprising continuity regarding people on each return visit to the city. You can recognise the same faces working in restaurants, with much less transience than you would experience somewhere like London. On my most recent visit, I bumped into a barmaid with whom we mutually recalled each other from numerous nights of heavy beer drinking three years prior during the 2022 World Cup. This sense of continuity, even in such an enormous city, is something I've scarcely felt in other places and contributes to its charm as somewhere to make repeat visits to.

Exercise

Hacıosman to Beşiktaş
One of my favourite runs that you'll find in any of the cities listed on Holdall. Take the M2 line up to Hacıosman around 90 minutes before sunset and follow the coastal path back down towards wherever your legs can take you. Passing through quaint, picturesque towns like Bebek, you'll pass numerous fishermen trying their luck as well as families enjoying a picnic alongside the water.
keyboard_arrow_down
Golden Horn
If you're working from COBAC and fancy a run after work, there's a great path which runs along the Golden Horn, following the recently completed tram line through various parks. The tram runs every five minutes, so whenever you've had enough you can hop on and take the journey back to the station immediately by Haliç station.
keyboard_arrow_down
Pendik to Kadıköy
If you want to stretch your legs, there's a well-landscaped path which takes you along the southern coastline of the Asian side, around 17 miles from Pendik to the ferry port at Kadıköy. If you don't fancy so many steps, the Marmaray overground train service makes numerous stops, with Maltepe being more of a palatable distance and starting point. It's worth cutting in at Bostancı to head along the main road.
keyboard_arrow_down
İBB Maçka Democracy Park
If you are staying in Beyoğlu, this hilly green park is one of your best places to opt for a morning run away from the manic streets of Taksim. The undulating landscape makes it particularly difficult to pick up any real pace, but if you enjoy some steep climbs and stairs, you are in for a treat.
keyboard_arrow_down
Kadiköy Loop
Reason enough to stay in the area - a perfect morning route around the edge of Moda Park and back into the heart of Kadıköy. Gets progressively busier as the day goes on, so best to aim for earlier in the day rather than dodging cans and bottles of Tuborg in the later evening, although the sunset is spectacular.
keyboard_arrow_down
Kadiköy Loop
Reason enough to stay in the area - a perfect morning route around the edge of Moda Park and back into the heart of Kadıköy. Gets progressively busier as the day goes on, so best to aim for earlier in the day rather than dodging cans and bottles of Tuborg in the later evening, although the sunset is spectacular.
İBB Maçka Democracy Park
If you are staying in Beyoğlu, this hilly green park is one of your best places to opt for a morning run away from the manic streets of Taksim. The undulating landscape makes it particularly difficult to pick up any real pace, but if you enjoy some steep climbs and stairs, you are in for a treat.
Pendik to Kadıköy
If you want to stretch your legs, there's a well-landscaped path which takes you along the southern coastline of the Asian side, around 17 miles from Pendik to the ferry port at Kadıköy. If you don't fancy so many steps, the Marmaray overground train service makes numerous stops, with Maltepe being more of a palatable distance and starting point. It's worth cutting in at Bostancı to head along the main road.
Golden Horn
If you're working from COBAC and fancy a run after work, there's a great path which runs along the Golden Horn, following the recently completed tram line through various parks. The tram runs every five minutes, so whenever you've had enough you can hop on and take the journey back to the station immediately by Haliç station.
Hacıosman to Beşiktaş
One of my favourite runs that you'll find in any of the cities listed on Holdall. Take the M2 line up to Hacıosman around 90 minutes before sunset and follow the coastal path back down towards wherever your legs can take you. Passing through quaint, picturesque towns like Bebek, you'll pass numerous fishermen trying their luck as well as families enjoying a picnic alongside the water.

Verdict

Positives
  • A distinctive layout and identity.The structure of Istanbul is utterly unlike any other urban environment in Europe. The Bosphorus running through its core, the meeting of the Golden Horn, the historic buildings and sharp steep ascents around Galata, the Princes' Islands conveniently anchored just off the shoreline. They all combine for an urban experience that has no equivalent on the continent. Riverboats and ferries serve integral parts of the city's transport infrastructure, rather than acting as novelty add-ons and tourist attractions like the Thames in London. The city's numerous and generally well-cared-for street cats and dogs can be found at every turn, frequently sleeping in shade and climbing fridges in shops. Even the aromas drifting through the streets are distinctive, with the combination of the grilled fish and spice markets around Eminönü well etched into my memories of that particular district.
  • An amazing variety of food. As you'd expect from Turkey's largest city, there's an incredible variety and quality of food to be enjoyed across Istanbul. There are styles of restaurants for every occasion: quick, cheap and tasty meals from a lokanta, raki-infused evenings sampling meze dishes in a meyhane, freshly grilled balık dürüm (fish wraps) from street vendors, to high-end sophistication. Istanbul covers all grounds in ample fashion. There's a wide variety of international cuisines to be found across the city also.
  • Still strong value in 2025. If you enjoy eating local food, sipping plentiful local çay and minimising your daily intake of cocktails, Istanbul is still incredible value when bringing foreign currency. Accommodation costs are proportionally higher when weighted against your other day-to-day costs, but averaged out over the course of a month, it still offers excellent value by global standards.
  • A true 24/7 city. Istanbul never seems to properly switch off. You can walk down İstiklal Street at any time of the day and find vast crowds filling it in its entirety. There's an infectious excitement and energy amongst its core urban hubs no matter the day of the week.
  • English generally spoken well. Most locals you will encounter in coworking spaces, coffee shops and even kebab restaurants will generally speak enough conversational English to get you through most routine transactions. I'd found this to be true across all of my visits to the country, but this resonated particularly strongly on this most recent 2025 trip where I'd spent the previous four months in Central Asia, where English-speaking coverage was particularly low.
  • A perfect city to explore on foot. The physical enormity of the city means there are no shortage of routes to explore on foot over the weekends. One of my favourite activities in the city is to pick one of the waterways and walk in whichever direction takes my fancy on any given day. There are generally well-landscaped paths next to all the waterways no matter which direction you go. Whether that's Bakırköy Sahil Parkı in the far west, İBB Orhangazi Şehir Parkı towards Maltepe, or Eyüp Sahil Parkı which follows the Golden Horn inland.
Negatives
  • Istanbul is enormous. Plan where you're going to stay to minimise the amount of travelling you'll need to do, at least on your initial visit. Some routes which cross waterways, like getting from Taksim to Kadıköy, can take far longer than you expect due to the lack of direct connections between them. Whilst there's a certain romanticism to the ferry boats which you can enjoy at your leisure over the weekends, they're perhaps not as rapid as some journeys would ideally necessitate. Traffic can be horrendous, especially in the areas leading up to the bridge crossings.
  • It's super busy. If you don't like the hustle and bustle of big cities, it's probably not going to be for you. You're likely to battle crowds during any trip to the city, whether that's navigating through an impenetrable wall of tourists around Galata, or walking through the densely populated streets of Kadıköy. You can learn to mitigate against this, and the crowds often dissipate rapidly as you venture down side streets, but with over 15 million people calling the city home, crowds are inevitable during many daily activities.
  • Proper winter weather. Whilst temperatures don't drop as low as in Western Europe, winter conditions can be grim and not what you would typically associate with Turkey. I can recall a particularly uninspiring bout of weather during December 2022 where it felt that the sun did not appear for a period of 10 days, with the dark, watery backstreets of Beyoğlu resembling scenes you could mistake for Gotham.
  • Both of Istanbul's airports are horrendous for pricing.Sabiha Gökçen Airport, the secondary airport on the Asian side serving many low-cost airlines, is likely to feel at twice capacity no matter what time of day you're passing through. Turkish airports have always been known as money-gouging exercises, but in recent years the costs have become completely detached from reality, with prices anchored at levels that most Europeans would baulk at and which lira-earning Turks must find purely offensive. The newly constructed Istanbul Airport on the European side is an improvement in that it's larger and less cramped, but it's also a significant journey from the city centre, and the pricing remains equally extortionate. Expect a pastry from Simit Sarayı to cost €15, compared to €2.50 in the city centre. It's a poor way for people to either enter or exit the country after what is usually such a warm experience.
  • Internet can be patchy.Most of the Airbnbs I've stayed in have had what would be classed as sub-par stability, with connections frequently dropping and speeds rarely exceeding 20Mbps. Even at the COBAC coworking space, there have occasionally been alerts sent around about wider internet connectivity issues from their suppliers. I wouldn't take for granted that your home connection would be sufficient.
Tips
  • Read up on Atatürk.Even within just 24 hours in Turkey, you'll likely be wondering who this immensely popular man is that you see referenced in old photos everywhere. Someone who is deeply revered almost universally across the country, he is the father of the modern nation, having successfully driven out the Ottomans and set the wheels in motion for wide-reaching social reform. The appreciation for him is unlike anything I can recall seeing for any public national figure anywhere else in the world, and having some familiarity with him is always warmly received by Turks.
  • Equip yourself with some knowledge of the current political climate.It wouldn't be too dramatic to say that most modern Turks have a deep sense of dismay with the state of politics and economics within the country, largely stemming from Recep Erdoğan's near 25-year hold on power. Inflation, a severely weakened currency and reduced political freedoms have made it an upsetting time for the liberal, Western-leaning younger population.
  • An eSIM from Mobimatter offers good value.20GB currently costs around £12 and avoids some of the bureaucratic hassle you might encounter when trying to purchase a physical SIM card locally.
  • Don't try and risk a slim flight connection between Istanbul and Sabiha Gökçen Airports.The airports are 85km apart at the extremities of the European and Asian sides of the city. Allow ample time if for any reason you need to travel between the two. Both are connected to metro lines, but anticipate heavy traffic on the roads.
  • Make sure to try a street-side 'Simit'.These bagel-shaped, circular bread snacks are available across the city, with vendors selling them from small carts. Prices are fixed at around 20 TL currently, so you needn't worry about being overcharged. They're particularly tasty with Nutella.
  • You cannot cross any of the bridges over the Bosphorus on foot.In my immense naivety, I did attempt this and inevitably failed. Opt for one of the many ferry crossings or take the Marmaray rail service.
  • Consider getting a Dolmuş for some routes.These small minibuses can be effective for reaching certain destinations, such as between Kadıköy and Taksim/Beşiktaş at night, and don't appear as public transport options on Google. Search for 'Dolmuş station' on Maps and manually navigate yourself there.
  • Bring earplugs.If you're staying south of Taksim, or close to any other area with concentrated late-night activity, don't count on having a peaceful night's sleep. Having stayed in a few places nearby, I found that the techno clubs can start at 3AM and not finish until sunrise. Better still, give these areas a miss if you're a sensitive sleeper, or confirm some form of soundproofing with your accommodation beforehand.‍
  • Pick up an İstanbulkart to use public transport.They can be used across all forms of public transport and can be easily topped up at metro, rail and ferry stations. Worth carrying around at all times as they're also used for access to public toilets should nature call.‍
  • Apple Pay is not officially supported in the country.You'll still be able to pay with it in roughly 75% of places, but there are some notable chain stores like EspressoLab and Carrefour where the card machine will not process the transaction. To be safe, it's best to carry around a physical card and a small amount of change to pick up any particularly appealing food items you may see.
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Istiklal Caddesi is Istanbul's equivalent of London's Oxford Street, fully pedestrianised, with the notable exception of a vintage tram that runs along its length. Whichever time of day you walk through it, it's likely to be awash with people. This photo was taken at 04:21 on a Saturday night in December.
Sunset in Taksim Square looking towards the mosque.
A Turkish breakfast is an essential part of any trip to the country. Expect an assortment of items featuring olives, cheeses, eggs, fresh tomatoes, honey, simit and washed down with plenty of tea. Prepare to be filled up.
View from the beach at Büyükada, the largest of the Princes' Islands. Picturesque and secluded, but watch out for glass and jellyfish. Well worth a day trip on the ferry, which is easily reachable from both Beyoğlu and Kadıköy.

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